FAQs

  • Simply put, engineered wood floors will behave a little differently than solid, they tend to be easier to install and are usually more cost-effective than solid hardwood. Although once we delve deeper we see that, due to their multiple-ply construction, engineered hardwood floors have been found to be more suitable in high-moisture areas or in areas where frequent temperature changes are common. These could be areas which are not environmentally controlled, such as below-grade installations or over radiant heating systems.

    Made of genuine wood, engineered wood flooring gives your home an updated look and feel while still offering more stability than solid hardwood. Of course, while no traditional wood flooring can tolerate water laying on it, when installed correctly, the increased moisture levels over concrete aren’t a problem for engineered wood floors. Although it is never recommended to install solid hardwood floors below grade, in basements or wine cellars as it can warp and buckle easily when introduced to elevated humidity, moisture, and temperature fluctuations.

  • Lacquer is a bit like a modern-day varnish, it sits on the top of the wood and "seals", unlike oil which tends to soak the wood fibers. The protection offered by a lacquered wood finish is arguably the toughest of all and is really intended for areas where you expect moderate to heavy foot traffic. With that said, because lacquer sits on top of the wood, when lacquered areas are beginning to wear away, the bare wood is left exposed and susceptible to damage. Although, one of the best things about lacquer finished wood flooring is that spills, if wiped up reasonably quickly, shouldn’t seep into the body of your floor. The arguable downside when you choose a lacquer finished floor is that the scuffs and scratches are slightly more noticeable than an oiled finish, so it’s doubly important to invest in really great doormats and sweep or vacuum regularly.

    This finish tends to be considered more resilient for customers who want to worry less about maintenance (but at a slightly lesser natural look of wood) and more about the pace of daily life. Refinishing should be done every 5-10 years depending on wear assessment.

    Oil is the modern-day equivalent to the old fashioned wax option, providing both surface protection as well as deep penetrating protection. Although oiled wood floors may require slightly more maintenance and finish specific products to do so on an ongoing basis when compared to lacquered wood floors, it tends to need fewer major interventions because the protection goes deeper than just the surface (if properly maintained). Unlike the lacquered finish, when the top layer of oil finish gets worn away, there is still a level of protection underneath. Of course, if you protect it with good doormats, and sweep or vacuum it regularly while occasionally lightly mopping, it’ll stand the test of time nicely. Reconditioning should be done every 3-6 months depending on foot traffic.

    This finish tends to be considered more attractive for customers who want to show the natural beauty of wood, but at a slightly more need for maintenance. Refreshing of the current oil finish or re-oiling should be done every 3-8 months depending on wear assessment.

  • This will be dependent on two factors; The first being the wear layer of your engineered floors and the second is your refinisher, 0.75 to 1 mm of material can be expected to be lost each time the floors are refinished. This means that a floor with a 4 mm top layer can be refinished 2-3 times if done properly. Since wire brushed and hand scraped floors can lose some of their texture throughout this process, it is important to go over what kind of changes to your floor you can expect with your contractor/refinisher prior to starting.

  • Some experts will argue that, due to its plywood core, engineered hardwood does not need to acclimate. Despite this also being one of the advantages of using engineered versus solid wood as a flooring solution, it is still best to allow the material to adjust to the relative humidity in the home. The simplest way to do this is by cutting the edge of each box and allowing air to flow through for 3-5 days. It is recommended to use a moisture reader within your home to determine how long you may need to acclimate your wood, higher levels of moisture will need more time to acclimate.

  • Engineered hardwood floors are the ideal wood floors to be used when installing over radiant heat. Unlike solid hardwood, which can swell or warp due to the elevation of moisture because of the elevation in moisture or change in temperature, engineered flooring and its multi-ply construction can provide more stability thereby better resisting movement from environmental fluctuations. Engineered hardwood can be floated, which means the boards are glued at the seams and not nailed/glued down to the subfloor, this will leave plenty of room for the thin tubes to lie easily beneath the floor.

  • The short answer is yes. Despite moisture having always been the sworn enemy of wood, given the proper care, hardwood floors in the kitchen and bathroom can be a beautiful addition to your home. Although engineered wood flooring can be installed in bathrooms, we do not recommend installing them in bathrooms that contain bathtub or showers due to increased moisture. When choosing a floor, being properly informed will make this decision easier as well as help you prolong the life of your new wood floors.

    UV lacquer is a very hard-wearing and durable finish, found to be more than sufficient for any residential interior. However, when enough damage accumulates over time, sections of the floor (planks or entire sections) might need to be replaced. In the kitchen, it’s most commonly the areas in front of the sink, the stove, and especially the fridge that are prone to damages from drops or spills. To protect your floor, use small mats or rugs in those areas.

    Oil Finished floors are not as resilient as lacquers, but have their own benefits – local area damages can be repaired easily. “Spot repairs” can be made using sanding paper, stain, and a refresher oil. Oil-finished hardwood floors are usually the best option for a kitchen where spills can be cleaned up quickly. Regardless of the type of surface finish, remember to wipe up spills immediately.Sweep, dust, or vacuum regularly. Occasionally wipe the surface with a damp cloth. Avoid oil-based sprays, waxes, polishes, and abrasive cleansers. WOCA hardwood floor products are recommended.

  • Although some of our products are similar in shade and color tones, each color is exclusive. Even though our sizes vary for each color, we do our best to have available stock of each size for our customers while some of our popular colors may offer additional sizes. If you find a certain color without an available size you like, feel free to contact us and we would be happy to discuss a custom order with you. Our design professionals are always available to consult with should you like a recommendation on which flooring material could be the best fit for your design and overall aesthetic.

  • Yes, custom orders are available! For more information please contact our flooring experts who would be happy to assist you. You can reach us at orders@decofloorsco.com or click here to send us a message directly.

  • Like any flooring, hardwood floors need to be properly cared for and maintained in order keep their beautiful and natural look. It is always recommended to thoroughly read about the exact cleaning instructions for your type of flooring.

    Visit our care and maintenance page for our in-depth guide to caring for your hardwood flooring. As always, feel free to contact us by phone or email if you have any questions and we will be happy to help. Click here to visit our care and maintenance page.

  • What is waste in regards to flooring? Well, it’s pretty simple actually. Waste, in regards to flooring, is the cut or otherwise discarded parts of the flooring that can’t or won’t be put in the final flooring installation. The reasons for needed waste can vary but overall it is extremely normal, and even recommended, to account for waste when creating an order for hardwood flooring.

    Some of the reasons we account for waste can be the installers experience, installation method, or even undesirable knots or grain pattern in the material. We recommend ordering 7 – 12% extra flooring material whenever purchasing your order to cover the waste factor.